Istanbul

Call it by whatever name you like - and it has had many - this city is a dream.  Beirut was perfect, Northern Lebanon was amazing, but Istanbul is a dream.  It's gloriously large, massive and glamourous on a scale befitting a city that bestrides two continents, but it's walkable and welcoming too.

And Merry Christmas to everyone!  I know, I didn't do a Hanukkah post, but I did have a proper Hanukkah celebration while I was Alex - made a menorah out of clay and everything!  In Northern Lebanon, where the majority are Maronite Christians, Christmas spirit was everywhere.  Here in Turkey, where the country is 97% Muslim, not so much with the Christmas fun times.  It's a little sad, and it feels strange to say that today is December 24th and I'm a million miles away from my family and friends and home.

But, let me not feel too sorry for myself.  Today, I saw the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar, the Basilica Cistern, Taksim Square, the Galata Bridge, ate tons of delicious street food, had my first and certainly not last glass of raki (hint: it's not pronounced like it looks)....and best of all, I did it in the company of truly wonderful friends.  Generous, hilarious, joyful people who reminded what Christmas is really about for a pagan like me - taking time out of the routine of daily life to celebrate warmth, company, light, laughter, and to make a little extra happiness in the world.

Merry Christmas, Istanbul!

And of course, everyone I love in the U.S. and around the world, you know I miss you, especially now, and I wish you bliss and ease, comfort and adventure, and friends as uplifting as mine to make your holiday brilliant.

Love,
Helen

P.S.  I think this picture should give you a good idea of how I'm spending my Christmas: